This was the closest women had been to equality at this point in time and it was illustrated throughout the clothing society deemed acceptable. Ladies’ suits were tailored with broad padded shoulders, cinched waists, structured collars, and were considered to be quite “mannish.” The transition of women wearing more masculine apparel and taking on traditionally masculine roles represented a newfound female independence. Military influence ran rampant throughout clothing made during wartime. This also served women as they were thrown into the war effort, working within factories and munition plants. Culottes, pleated skirts, lined skirts, and reversible skirts were all rejected, as well as extraneous details like pockets and hoods, making for a far more utilitarian look. Fabric conservation became a priority, and hemlines rose from the 1930s trend of the mid-calf to just above the knee as a means to ration materials. This regulation measured and limited all facets of clothing and materials. ![]() In 1942, President Roosevelt installed the War Production Board, and with it came the L-85 legislation. The self-reliance on the domestic economy forced the American fashion community to up the ante and find its own voice, redefining where fashion had traditionally positioned its spotlight. When overseas shipping was no longer an option and the German occupation of Paris took hold, the American consumer was cut off from the styles that had previously dominated the industry. America responded to WWII (and the lifestyle limitations it posed) with unwavering patriotism. In regards to rationing and shortages during World War II, there came a rising challenge to make something out of nothing. ![]() The audacious act of a woman daring to wear slacks was so scandalous that she could have been arrested under the pretense that she would have been “masquerading as a man.” Dietrich’s sartorial choice would become more and more common by the end of the decade, however, as women assumed roles in the workforce. The famed actress was traveling aboard the SS Europa to Paris while wearing a crisp white suit when the local police sent Dietrich a warning that she would be taken into custody upon her arrival in France. The former was actually threatened with arrest for donning slacks in 1933. Many found themselves dreaming of the slinky, bias cut gowns popularized by the cinema.Ĭonversely, some were beginning to find inspiration in the stars daring to wear men’s trousers, such as Marlene Dietrich, Ginger Rogers, and Katharine Hepburn. Hemlines dropped as they tend to do in economic downturn with the general style being slim fitting, feminine, and soft. During these tumultuous times, Americans found solace in Hollywood’s glamorous pictures and the starlets within them. The Great Depression of the 1930s forced people to make do with what was available to them. The Great Depression and The Golden Age of Hollywood Their bold and daring styles, bob haircuts, cloche hats, and shorter dresses clad with sequins and fringe exemplified what it meant to be young and full of life, epitomizing the decade. With Coco Chanel having released women from the corset, the flappers were less restricted, both sartorially and socially. The ladies of the ‘20s took what they were owed with a strong constitution: they smoked and cursed in public, wore heavier makeup, and shortened their skirts and revealed their arms. ![]() Following this monumental victory, women began to feel emboldened by their newfound liberty and the buoyant aura of rebellion hovering over the nation. The 19th Amendment to the Constitution was ratified in 1920, granting women the right to vote. After campaigning for nearly 100 years, the goal of the Women’s Suffrage Movement finally came to fruition. Sneaking around the confines of Prohibition sparked a rebellious nature in society. The roaring ’20s was an era of scandalous parties, dancing, flappers, jazz, glitz, and glam.
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